Trip Report - What Is A Norway Fjords Cycling Holiday Like?

We headed off to Bergen to start our Sunnhordland Fjords tour in August 2019. I am going to try my best to describe the beauty of this country alongside a few of my favourite pictures, however it is certainly not an understatement to say that no photos I took or words I write can do this tour justice. This truly is one of those trips that you have to go on to fully appreciate!

From the moment we landed in Bergen to the moment we left, our jaws were dropped in awe of the beauty of this wonderful part of Norway. For myself and my partner, it was one of the most amazing experiences of our life and definitely exceeded our expectations. The cycling routes were quiet and peaceful and we felt we worked hard enough to deserve the absolutely delicious three-course dinners and a glass of wine with incredible views from our unique hotels. After a good night's rest, we were excited to go again, fuelling up at the breakfast buffet and preparing our packed lunches. We couldn’t wait to get going to see what was around the next corner.

If jaw-dropping scenery, moderate levels of cycling, unique places to stay and magnificent food is your thing then this is absolutely the cycling holiday for you!

Every ride followed the only road on each island so the route notes were brief, which made navigation extremely easy. We read them the night before each ride to check for optional detours and planning coffee stops en route. The routes are rural, so the packed lunches and thermos refills included in the tour are perfect for a picnic en route. Each day ended with a ferry to the next island, where your accommodation for the night is located. Ensuring you have an idea of which ferry time you’d like to catch is good to bear in mind.

We landed in Bergen in the early afternoon and used the efficient tram service to reach our hotel. After checking in and unpacking, we went for a walk along the beautiful wharf and through the charming little streets, marveling at the fascinating street art.

We enjoyed our free morning strolling through the streets of Bergen and up to St. John's Church, coming back through the fish market. We had a little rain and some cloud cover so opted not to take the funicular up to Fløyen but we have been told it is certainly worth the trip for some great views. 

That afternoon we picked up our luggage that the hotel had safely stored for us, headed 500m to the bike shop to collect our bikes and then another 600m to wait for our ferry to Rosendal and our second hotel situated right by the dock. We went for a short walk to the small sandy “beach” and to the Kvinnherad Church before enjoying our first included dinner at the hotel (included in the tour price).

Our first ride already had us breathless… and not just from the cycling! Around every bend was something new and we were in awe of the beauty. With the backdrop of towering mountains to our left and fjords to our right, we made our first stop in Uskedal for a hot coffee. We were warmly greeted by a lovely local lady walking her cat! She invited us back to her antique store for a look around and some great stories.

Once back on our bikes and after a little climb past the town of Husnes, at about the halfway point for the day we stopped to enjoy our packed lunch at a picnic spot next to the road with picnic benches and a lovely view of the fjords. We then carried on past small towns and a beautiful lake to get our ferry over to Skånevik and as we set off early, we made the 2pm ferry. From our hotel we walked across the little wooden bridge to Peparen to enjoy a light snack and a well-deserved beer.

Today we cycled around the west side of the island to Etne and back. On the way there we met some friendly llamas, before taking the short, optional detour to the peninsula. It was hilly, but worth it! The last stretch to Etne takes you right along the water's edge with a view of locals pottering on their boats. When we reached Etne we had a nice lunch at a small cafe and then turned back to Skånevik. We had a little time before the ferry for a coffee and snack on little Peparen island. What a day!

As today's ride is a loop ride, you also have the option to take a rest off your bikes. The back of the hotel is your doorway to wooded hills that seem to extend to the sky, where you can go for a walk or just take in the views.

What can I say - another absolutely stunning ride today! Dare I say my favourite? We waited out the rain for as long as we could before making our way out of Etne, taking in the fresh air as we cycled through lush, green forest past beautiful lakes. We took the route to the west side of the lake Storavatnet and stopped for lunch on the north bank at Breiavikjo badestrand, with a beautiful view of the lake. From here we made our way to the Sandvikvåg ferry terminal for the ferry to Husavik for our last 8km ride to Bekkjarvik, an old merchant town.

Here we went for a lazy stroll through the park and I think we both fell a little bit in love with Bekkjarvik! Tonight’s meal was included at the hotel restaurant.

We decided to get up a little earlier for our last cycle day and add on some mileage before heading back to Bergen. There are a few optional detours and we decided to add an extra 17 miles (28km) to Stora Kalsøy on Bakkasund. Our last bit of cycling was brilliant, riding over bridges from one beautiful island to another. To top the day off, we stopped at a gorgeous peninsula for a spot of lunch.

A unique part of this tour is the hotels you stay in, all with their own character and history, highlights include:

• Bergen - a 3* hotel, perfectly located for a walk along the wharf and not far from the location to collect your bikes, and then on to the dock for the ferry to Rosendal.
• Rosendal - a guest house located right by the fjord that dates back to 1887. It began life as a small building that was rented out to travellers, and has also been used as an army barracks. It has since been renovated to a high standard, whilst retaining a cosy charm.
• Skånevik - a 3* hotel very close to the dock with a big garden area where you can sit and relax. Also located close to Peparen island, a great spot to soak up the sun. The restaurant has big panoramic windows with a view over the water.
• Leirvik - a historic guesthouse that dates back to 1884. This wasn’t our favourite accommodation of the trip but was characterful and functional
• Bekkjarvik - a 3* family run hotel of a very high standard. We really loved this place! It was located right at the harbour and next to the gardens in a very pretty area. The restaurant was fantastic, with award-winning chefs creating wonderful dishes that were our highlight of the week. We had Halibut to start, Sirloin of Wild Lamb and Chocolate Chibboust and cheese platter for dessert. 

You can find a full list of the hotels we use on the tour page.

Equally as special as the accommodation is the food, with 3 course dinners included on certain nights you will be very spoiled. We thoroughly enjoyed an array of fish, steak and soup dishes.

Of course, you also have a perfect energy fuelled start to your day with a buffet of food for breakfast. With a packed lunch included, we got very creative with the sandwiches and snacks we prepared for our rides, which we enjoyed about halfway on each route in a little town or beautiful green spot.